Composite yarn structures and method of preparing same



12, 1969 G. H. coLuNGwoon'ETAL. 3,460,336

COMPOSITE YARN STRUCTURES AND METHOD OF PREPARING SAME Filed April 4.1967 l4 DA RK COLORED OR COLORABLE ROkS LIGHT Fl LAMENTS PACKAGES 5COLORED FILAMENTS CRIMPING TWlST DEVICES DEVICES a COMPOSITE!) AND onHOMOGENEOUS STRUCTURE ENTANGLEMENT DEVICES TWIST 3-\ COMBINED DEVICESYARN AND/OR l9 CRIMPING DEVICES ENTANGLEMENT DEVICES com osaraouomoeeuaous /s1'RucTuRE TRAVERSE TRAVERSE WINDER WINDER FlNlSHED FIMSHEDPACKAGE PACKAGE INVENTORS Gemge H. C'olilnqwood Hrry J. Demos a GeorgeF. Bryant BY ATTORNEY Int. Cl. D02g 3/02 US. Cl. 57-140 22 ClaimsABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE This invention is directed to a process forpreparing novel, texturized composite-yarn structures and the coloredfabrics attained therefrom which comprises forming homogeneousstructures by simultaneously crimping at least two filaments of lightand dark contrasting colors or colorability and subjecting thecomposited structures to mechanical operations including twisting,entangling or twisting and entangling, in any order. The contrastingcolored or colorable filaments include the synthetic filaments having acolor contrast of at least six Gardner units. The colored fabricsprepared from the textured composite-yarn structures may becharacterized as having the dark contrasting filaments composited in theyarn to impart to the total fabric a random, three-dimensional effect.The dark contrasting filaments are composited in the yarn in a mannersuch that the fabric has a visual color effect substantially greaterthan the color that would normally be seen by the actual amount of thedark filaments present in the fabric.

This invention is directed to a process for preparing texturized,composite-yarn structures and to the variety of colored yarns andfabrics attained therefrom. More specifically, this invention isdirected to a process for preparing novel yarn structures comprising atleast two filaments of contrasting colors or colorability to be used inthe preparation of colored fabrics characterized as having a random,three-dimensional design effect.

It is generally known that it would be an ideal machine that would becapable of combining several ends of different colored yarns to produce,for example, an exciting marl or mottled effect. There are, however,various known methods concerned with the production of novel yarns bycombining different colored filaments.

The present technology includes, for example, the preparation of theseyarns by utilizing jets, e.g., either the loop or whorl-type methods,stuffer box crimpers, false twist methods, high-twist levels, e.g.,raise twist and jet combinations, and finally, yarns prepared by avariety of twist methods whereby a non-random color effect may beobtained. To improve on these techniques, this invention provides meansof preparing composited yarn structures useful for the production offabrics having a variety of designs at substantially lower costs and bycomparatively simple procedures.

Thus, while it is known that various design effects may be obtained bycombining different colored yarns by using different twist procedures,it was unexpected to find that the design effects obtained by thisinvention would be so dramatically different that they could not bereproduced by the other knoWn methods. Moreover, by the instant process,it is possible to obtain decisive design effects with each type offabric manufacturing process. Heretofore, to achieve similar results, itwas necessary to use the more expensive components, including thevarious dope-dyed yarns, metallized synthetic yarns, novel craftsectional yarns, metallic yarns, etc. The use of these matates Patent m3,460,336 Patented Aug. 12, 1969 terials, however, was limited to alarge extent because of the increase in cost of the more expensivecomponents.

In accordance with this invention, however, by utilizing as little as0.5%, for example, of the'more expensive component, it is possible toobtain excellent design effects which are optically equivalent to fabricwhich, in fact, contain as high as 50% of the more expensive component.

There are still other problems with many of the presently availabletextured or bulk yarns, wherein a texturizing streak or pirn barr mayoccur with the different yarn laps. However, by the instant processwhere the filaments of contrasting color or colorability are separatedwithin the composite structure, the problem of pirn barr and texturizingvariation are reduced to a relative insignificant level by the randompatterns produced. Thus, this invention may serve as an excellent meansof utilizing nonuniform feeder yarns to produce an improved qualityproduct where a non-commercial product would have been producedotherwise. Normally, texturized yarns are plied to improve theiruniformity and to minimize their inherent barr. The random effectobtained by the instant process resulting from the combination of two ormore colored filaments mask the barr to the extent that plying is notnecessary.

It has been found that special design effects can be obtained with eachlevel of twist prior to texturizing or in the alternative, a differentdesign may be obtained with each level of twist subsequent totexturizing. Moreover, an entirely different design may be obtained byutilizing entanglements rather than twists which change also with thedegree of entanglements per meter. It is known also that by plying yarnsunder various conditions and at various twist levels, different designsmay be used in combination with different manufacturing processes.However, these design changes are relatively costly and have specificlimitations with respect to the economical variety which can beobtained.

Previously, in order to simulate the effect of natural staple fabrics,it was necessary to cut-up the continuous filament yarns and recombinethese multiple staple ends into an elongated fibrous structure. Thisoperation represents a number of additional steps and requiresadditional equipment and labor. Therefore, it is preferable to usecontinuous filament yarns to simulate staple fabrics. This can beaccomplished, for example, by using the compositeyarn structures of thisinvention in one direction and the natural staple and synthetic fibersin the opposite direction, such that the combined fabric has theappearance that the whole fabric was made of a blended staple yarn,e.g., a polyester and cotton.

Accordingly, it is an object of this invention to provide a process forpreparing homogeneous, composite-yarn structures comprising at least twofilaments of light and dark contrasting colors or colorability whereinthe color contrast is of at least six Gardner units.

It is another object of this invention to provide a process forpreparing colored fabrics from textured, composite-yarn structureshaving at least two filaments of contrasting colors or colorability;said fabrics characterized as having the dark colored filaments presentin the yarn in amounts to impart to the fabrics a random,threedimensional color effect. It is still another object of thisinvention to provide colored fabrics prepared from texturedcomposite-yarn structures wherein the dark, contrasting filaments give avisual color effect substantially greater than the color effect thatwould normally be obtained by the amount of colored filaments actuallypresent in the fabrics.

It is still another object of this invention to provide a process forpreparing composite-yarn structures comprising small amounts of darkfilaments which, when used in the preparation of fabric, contribute tothe fabric a novel, random, three-dimensional design, said dark,contrasting filaments imparting to the total fabric a significantlygreater visual color efiect than the actual amount in the fabric.

It is still a further object of this invention to provide a processwherein the more expensive filaments of dark, contrasting colors orcolorability can be effectively and homogeneously combined with thelighter, less expensive filaments to produce a novel design hithertopossible only by means of the more expensive processes.

It is still a further object of this invention to provide a process ofpreparing novel texturized, composite-yarn structures whereby amultiplicity of design may be obtained by utilizing the said yarns inthe preparation of fabrics without having to rely on the use of multiplecolored or colorable yarns. Thus, for example, a single strand or yarnmay be circular knit to obtain a wide variety of designs depending uponthe twist and/or entanglement level previously inserted.

It is still a further object of this invention to provide texturized,composite-yarn structures comprising dark and light filaments and amethod of preparing same, wherein a comparatively small amount of thedark contrasting filaments, which are normally more expensive, are usedto obtain a degree of color design which otherwise would require acomparatively larger amount of said dark filaments if prepared inaccordance with procedures known heretofore.

These and other objects of the invention will become apparent from afurther and more detailed description of the invention to follow.

More specifically, this invention relates to a process of preparingtexturized, composite-yarn structures and to a variety of coloredfabrics to be obtained therefrom. These yarn structures may be preparedby crimping simultaneously at least two synthetic filaments of light anddark contrasting colors or colorability to a crimp level of 6 to 30crimps per inch, and more preferably to a crimp level of 9 to 16 crirnpsper inch. Subsequently, the composited, homogeneous, crimped yarnstructures are subjected to a mechanical operation selected from thegroup consisting of (l) twisting to a level of 0.01 to 3 turns per inch,(2) entangling to a level of 0.01 to 100 entanglements per meter, or (3)as an alternative, twisting and entangling said yarn structures to thelevels indicated. It is important that the filaments comprising the yarnstructures have at least two filaments, i.e., various syntheticfilaments, wherein the color contrast between them is at least sixGardner units and more preferably, at least twelve Gardner units. Thecomposited-yarn structures of this invention may be furthercharacterized as comprising 0.5 to 49 parts by weight and morepreferably, 0.5 to 30 parts by weight of at least one of the dark,contrasting colored or colorable filaments and 51 to 99.5 parts byweight, and more preferably, 70, 99.5 parts by weight of at least one ofthe lighter colored or colorable filaments with the color contrastbetween the filaments being at least six Gardner units.

In general, the dark contrasting colored or colorable filaments includefilaments which are dark red, brown, blue, green, black, purple, grey,but preferably, the black, brown, blue and purple filaments. The lightcontrasting colored or colorable filaments include, for example,filaments of white, yellow, orange, light-red, light-grey, lightgreen,light-blue, lightviolet, and more preferably, the lighter yellows,greens, oranges and whites.

More specifically, the dark contrasting colored or colorable filamentsmay be further defined as having a Munsell lightness value of 06 unitsand a Munsell chroma value of 0-13 with a contrast of at least sixGardner units. Preferably, the dark contrasting colored or colorablefilaments may be characterized as having a Munsell value of 0.5 to 3.5and a Munsell chroma value of 0-5 with a contrast between the light anddark filaments being preferably of at least twelve Gardner units.However, when utilizing black filaments, it may be possible to usefilaments having lower contrasting values which may be as low as threebut preferably, at least six Gardner units.

The lighter colored or colorable filaments may be further characterizedas having a Munsell lightness value of 6-10 and a chroma value of 0-11.More preferably, the lighter colored filaments may have a Munsell colorvalue of 7-10 and a Munsell chroma value of 0-8 with the greys andwhites having a maximum chroma value ranging from 0-2.

A more detailed description of the above-mentioned Munsell values may befound in the National Bureau of Standards Circular 553, issued Nov. 1,1955, entitled The ISCC-NBS Method of Designating Colors and aDictionary of Color Names," pp. 2-5.

The color definitions of the light and dark contrasting coloredfilaments to be employed by this invention are specifically shown in thefollowing Table I.

TABLE I.COLOR DEFINITIONS Gardner contrast Visual values Munsell colorscale values Difierence in contrast Saturation or chroma between lightand Munsell value on lightness values dark values Dark contrastingcolors 1R Broad 9R Preferred Broad Preferred Broad Preferred 5 0-14 0-66 12 Dark green 7-11 .7-7 10 14 NonMunsell Color:

Black 3k 0-2 o-1 a a Dark grey. (*2 0-1 6 15 Light; contrasting colors:GY G G Light green 2.5-1o?? ""I 3.135? 9-14 Green yellow 36?? 0-118YR-9B- SYR-3G. Yellow 840 0-11 Yellow Tii'ifis i fi 'ii'iii i fii'f 1-8 10 Light red 1 J Non-Munsell color:

The contrast of the colored filaments were determined on the GardnerModel C-4. This colorimeter gave color notations in terms of R A and B.R is lightness or darkness on the grey scale wherein 100 is white and Ois black. The value A can be positive or negative wherein the positivevalues indicate redness and the negative values indicate greenness. Thevalue B is positive and negative. Positive B values denote yellowness,whereas negative B values denote a blueness. The control system for theblues and yellows are the B values, the control system for the greensare the A values, and the control system for the whites, blacks andgreys are the R, values. Where positive and negative values aresimultaneously present such as red and green, the R is the preferredscale for color contrast values.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a schematic diagram illustrating a specific embodiment ofpreparing the texturized, composite-yarn structures in accordance withthis invention.

FIGURE 2 is an alternative schematic diagram illustrating a specificembodiment of preparing the texturized composite-yarn structures inaccordance with this invention.

More specifically, referring to FIGURE 1 as a preferred embodiment, atleast one or more dark, contrasting colored or colorable filaments andat least one or more lighter colored or colorable filaments 1 and 4,respectively, pass from the spinnerettes either onto packages or drawrolls 2 and 5 where the filaments may be drawn, if desired, to a ratioof 3 to 6 with respect to the undrawn filaments.

Then the filaments are passed to a crimper 3 wherein the light and darkcontrasting filaments are homogeneously composited into a uniformstructure by simultaneously crimping the filaments to a crimp level of 6to 30 crimps per inch. Subsequently, the composited homogeneous yarnstructure 6 passes to a twister 7 and/or an entanglement device 8wherein the composited-yarn structure is either twisted to a level of0.01 to 3 turns per inch, entangled to a level of 0.01 to 100entanglements per meter, or twisted and entangled, in any order, to thelevels indicated. The texturized, composited-yarn structures 9 are thencarried or taken-up on a traverse winder 10 as a finished package.

As an alternative, FIGURE 2 illustrates another specific embodiment ofthis invention wherein at least one dark colored or colorable filament11 is drawn on a draw roll 12 while a lighter colored or colorablefilament 14 is drawn on a draw roll 15 to draw ratios of 3 to 6, asdesired, prior to being subjected to a mechanical operation. The lightand dark contrasting colored or colorable filaments are passed from thedraw rolls or packages 12 and 15 to a twisting device 13 and/ or anentangling device 17, in any order, wherein the colored or colorablefilaments are subjected to either a twist level of 0.01 to 3 turns perinch, an entanglement level of 0.01 to 100 entanglements per meter, orin the alternative, a combination of twisting and entangling to thelevels indicated. Subsequently, the combined yarn 18 is withdrawn fromthe mechanical devices and passed to a crimper 19 wherein the yarn issubjected to a crimp, e.g., saw-tooth crimp, to a level of 6 to 30crimps per inch. The composited, homogeneous yarn structure 20 is thentaken-up on a traverse winder 21 as a finish package.

It should be noted that the material difference between the schematicdiagrams of FIGURES 1 and 2 is the subjecting of the filaments in FIGURE1 to a crimper prior to being subjected to the other mechanical devices,whereas FIGURE 2 subjects the filaments to the mechanical devices beforecrimping. It should be further noted that while the preferredembodiments illustrate the preparation of the texturized composite-yamstructures by utilizing draw rolls, it is to be understood that drawingof the filaments prior ot subjecting them to the mechanical devices andcrimper is not essential and if desired, may be eliminated. Thus, forexample, the dark and light contrasting filaments may be passed directlyfrom packages to the crimper and the other mechanical operations, in anyorder. Moreover, while the preferred embodiments indicate that thecontrasting filaments may be twisted, entangled, or in the alternative,twisted and entangled in any order, the least preferred is the latter,in that it contributes the least to the ultimate design.

In accordance with this invention, by utilizing at least two filamentsof light and dark contrasting color or colorability in the relativeproportions indicated and by subjecting them to the texturizing devices,it is possible to obtain composite-yarn structures wherein the filamentsare intermingled but nevertheless retain their contrasting colors and,therefore, contribute to fabrics prepared therefrom a novel, random,three-dimensional design with the darker filaments imparting to thetotal fabric a significantly greater visual color effect than the amountactually present in the fabric. Thus, since it is possible to obtaingreater color effect with only small amounts of the darker filaments, itis desirable to include within the darker filaments other additiveswhich impart desirable characteristics to the final products. Theseadditives may include, for example, electrical conductors,flame-retarding agents, wrinkle-resistant agents, improved hand,improved drape, novel lustre, a higher modulus or stiffness, a reducedsoiling tendency, improved bulk, improved heat and weather stability,etc.

The various color combinations which may be employed for purposes ofthis invention include the different colored yarns such as, for example,dope-dyed, skeindyed, finished dyed, and the like. The particularfilaments having contrasting color or colorability to be used in theprocess include, for example, nylons, e.g., polycaproamide, polyesters,e.g., polyethylene terephthalate, polyblend filaments comprising blendsof the polyesters and nylons, polyolefins, i.e., polypropylene,polyacrylic filaments, and various other known synthetic or man-madefibers such as rayon, rayon acetate, polynosics and the like.

A preferred embodiments, continuous filaments of contrasting color orcolorability are texturized into composite structures by crimping tolevels of 9-16 crimps per inch, twisting to levels of 0.01 to 1.0 turnsper inch, or alternatively, entangling to levels of 0.01 to 50entanglements per meter. The yarn structures preferably consistessentially of 1 to 30 parts by weight of at least one filament of darkcontrasting color or colorability and 99 to 70 parts by weight of atleast one lighter colored or colorable filament. The contrastingfilaments are simultaneously combined by crimping, e.g., by mechanicalmeans or fluid-jet means, such that the contrasting filaments arestructurally commingled but nevertheless retain their distinct contrastin color.

An example of a method which may be employed for producing the coloredor colorable filaments comprises the steps of continuously spinning inone spinnerette the colored or colorable filament while simultaneouslyspinning the lighter filaments in the separate spinnerette, follower bydrawing, if desired, and then combining at least two ends in a suitablejet or mechanical crimper. Alternatively, the colored or colorablefilaments may be separately obtained from spinnerettes followed bydrawing and then simultaneously combining the ends in a suitablecrimping device. Still further, the colored or colorable filaments maybe commingled by spinning a dope-dyed product, for example, in aseparate plant and combining the drawn filament simultaneously in acrimping device with a different colored or colorable filament which isbeing spun-drawn.

It is an important aspect of this invention that while it is necessaryto have a color contrast of at least 6 and preferably 12 Gardner units,it is possible, however, to use dark and light contrasting filaments ofthe same material, i.e., two different nylon filaments. Thus, since thefilaments may be chemically different, the light and dark contrast willbe an inherent function of the filaments susceptibility to the variousdyes. In other words, it may be possible to use a combination ofdifferent nylons, e.g., Nylon 6 and Nylon 6-6, or a combination ofnylons with polyesters, polyblends, i.e., see Belgian Patent No. 661,-783, polyolefins, rayon, or in some cases, even a combination of nylonwith natural fibers. Of the nylons, Nylon 6 is particularly preferredprimarily because of the lower temperature at which it may be melt-spunto allow the incorporation of heat-sensitive pigment, etc., to thepolymer. As an illustration, filaments of nylon having an amine-endgroup differential of at least 18 amine groups may be used to achievethe degree of contrast required due to the difference in susceptibilityof this particular filament to dyes. Moreover, after the yarns areprepared in accordance with this invention, they may be further blendedwith synthetic and/ or natural fibers, such as wool or cotton, in thepreparation of the end fabric. In order to have a coherent structurewhich will not later separate out the colored components, it isnecessary, however, to pass the filaments through a crimping device anda mechanical operation, as more particularly pointed out herein. It wasfound that if the contrasting filaments were not simultaneously crimped,then there was generally separation of the filaments in spite of themore intimate treatments, i.e., entangling and/or twisting. It is thecrimping of the filaments which provides the coherent structure whichremains uniformly coherent throughout subsequent operations. Thetwisting and/or entangling provide for a number of different patternseither to increase or decrease the design differential or to change thevariety of designs. However, without the combination of either thetwisting or entangling with crimping, it is not possible to duplicatethe patterns in successive production of yarns. The reason is primarilybecause it is not possible to maintain the coherency of the structure byany other known method.

It is further essential, in accordance with this invention, that thedegree of contrast between the colored or colorable filaments bemaintained at least 6, and preferably 12, Gardner units; otherwise, thedesired effect of pattern definition, design differential,three-dimensional color effects, etc., will not be obtained. Forexample, if there is too little contrast between the filaments, thedesign obtained will be essentially non-distinguishable. Consequently,it is essential to maintain the required contrast between the coloredfilaments and to provide the critical level of crimping to achieve theneeded coherency. While it is not preferred to use a combination ofentanglement and twist, it is possible, however, to use thiscombination, particularly at the lower levels, to obtain entirelydifferent designs. This is possible in preparing tweeds wherein uponemploying both an entanglement and twist, a design is obtained which isdifferent from that which would be obtained by employing either one ofthe two.

The method and apparatus which may be used for entangling the finedenier yarns for purposes of this invention are more particularlypointed out in copending application Ser. No. 388,592, filed on Aug. 10,1964. Here, for example, an entangled yarn product is obtained bysimultaneously treating a light, colored drawn 230/ 32/0 Nylon 6 yarnand a darker contrasting drawn 70/32/0 Nylon yarn; said yarns havingdifferent propensities to ward shrinking and dyeing. The specificapparatus employed had the following dimensions:

The chamber member and the yarn guides are fabricated of AlSiMag ceramicmaterial above identified.

In operation, the yarns follow a Z-shaped path in a plane perpendicularto the axis of the nozzle, each yarn passing through the uppermost guidein the same 135 angle and the yarns being withdrawn through the lowerguide at a 135 angle to the line between the guides. By means of aconstant speed driven takeup roll and up stream tension control means,the tension on the partially drawn yarn is maintained uniformly at 5.0grams and the tension of the fully drawn yarn is maintained uniformly at7.0 grams. The rate of yarn throughput for both yarns is 500 yd./min.Air at a pressure of p.s.i.g. is employed as the entangling medium. Inthe course of yarn treatment the filaments are observed by high speedphotography to separate and oscillate and the yarn as a whole to vibrateand contact the upper and lower portions of the mouth of the chamber atleast times per second. The entangled yarn obtained has a coherencyfactor of 312 and an outlier fraction of 0.038.

The yarns to be entangled by the above-described process may include,for example, the nylons such as poly- (epsilon caproamide),poly(hexamethyleneadipamide), viscose rayon, cellulose esters, i.e.,cellulose acetate, linear polyesters, e.g., polyesters of terephthalicacid or isophthalic acid, and a lower glycol, e.g., polyethyleneterephthalate, polyalkylenes, e.g., polypropylene, polyacrylics, e.g.,polyacrylonitrile, as well as the copolymers of acrylonitrile. Thisentangling device may be employed, in series, with one or more otherconventional textile operations including spinning, drawing, winding,plying, packaging, repackaging, crimping, twisting, etc. The yarns whichare particularly suitable for entanglement in this gas jet apparatusinclude yarns having deniers ranging from about 10 to 4,000 denier withindividual filament deniers ranging from about 0.5 to 16 denier.

For the heavy denier yarns, i.e., yarns having deniers ranging up to10,000, the commingling jet apparatus may be used, which is particularlyset forth in copending application Ser. No. 535,480, filed on Mar. 18,1966. Here, the apparatus was employed to entangle untwisted 3600denier, 210 filament nylon yarns having a zig-zag stutterbox crimp, apackaged crimp index of 8.5% and a relaxed crimp index of 23.5%. Thespecific apparatus employed had the following characteristics:

Overall length of yarn passageway in 3.5 Length of large diametersegment of yarn passageway in 2.0 Diameter of large diameter segment ofyarn passageway in 0.25 Diameter of small diameter segment of yarnpassageway in 0.125 Length of small diameter segment of yarn passagewayin 1.5 Diameter of gas passageway in 0.20 Ratio of area of gaspassageway to area of yarn passageway 0.64 Percent of gas which exitsfrom entrance end of yarn passageway percent 94 Angle of gas passagewaydegrees 45 The yarn was fed into the apparatus on a straight line pathat a rate of 265 yards/minute and a tension of 22 grams (.006 gram perdenier). The yarn emerged from the device in a straight line, and aspeed of 263 yards per minute. In order to properly center the airstream, the cylindrical air passageway was constructed to be slightlyoff center within the cylindrical walls of tube and this tube wasadjusted by twisting it to achieve smooth operation forming yarn withalternating zones of cornmingling and no commingling. A deviation of asmuch as 6 mils in the position of the central axis of air passagewayaway from the plane which is parallel to said axis and also contains thecentral axis of yarn passage was found to make the yarn twist off thefeed rolls, and failed to give the yarn product of the invention havingalternating sites of commingling and no commingling; and even 3 milsdeviation caused the device to run less smoothly.

The method employed to determine the level of entanglement is known asthe Hook Drop Method described below.

HOOK DROP TEST Meter lengths of yarn to be tested are clamped at theupper end and allowed to hang in the vertical position under the tensionprovided by a weight in grams which is 0.20 times the yarn denier (butnot greater than 100 grams), inserting through the yarn bundleapproximately midway within a region of no apparent commingling aweighted hook having a total weight in grams numerically equal to themean denier per filament of the yarn (but not weighing more than grams),and lowering the hook at a rate of one to two centimeters per seconduntil the weight of the hook .is supported by the yarn. The distance ofhook travel is measured. Since the commingling is fairly random innature, 100 separate meter lengths are tested to define a representativesample for a given package of yarn or for a multitude of presumablyidentical packages of yarn. Of the 100 separately obtained hook dropdistances, the upper 20 and lower 20 values are discarded, and theremaining 60 are averaged to determine the average distance of hooktravel. This value, D, measured in centimeters, is essentially one halfthe average distance between sites of strong enough commingling to stopthe hook travel.

The method of texturizing or crimping the yarns in accordance with thisinvention may include the stuffer box methods, as particularly describedin US. Patents Nos. 3,037,260 and 3,031,734. Other crimping methods mayinclude the jet process, as particularly described in US. Patent No.3,005,251, and the belt or gear crimping devices as shown in US. PatentNo. 2,751,661. Other apparatuses including the stuffer box crimper whichmay be used to produce the saw-tooth, three-dimensional crimp aredescribed in US. Patents Nos. 2,862,729 and 2,933,- 771.

Of the various methods, a preferred method which may be used forpurposes of this invention is particularly set forth in copendingapplication Ser. No. 562,893, filed on July 5, 1966, now US. Patent No.3,409,956.

Here, for example, a 2400-denier, 75-filament drawn yarn in the form ofa strand spun from polycaproamide polymer of formic acid, relativeviscosity 52 (A.S.T.M.

D78962T) and a strand of 40-denier, 12-filarnent dopedyed blackcomponent was delivered simultaneously to the steam-jet texturizingapparatus at 3,000 feet per minute and at a tension of to grams. Theangle A of the diverging cone 16 measured 30. There were 12 equallyspaced holes in the rear exhaust which measured 0.0595". Steam atp.s.i.g. and 470 C. temperature was directed from a 0.061 diameter steamnozzle, into a pre-heat tube 4 in length and having a diameter of 0.125inch. The yarn strand in the pre-heat tube was heated to a temperatureof about C. and the steam and yarn strands were thereafter directed intothe chamber where a yarn plug was formed. The steam forced the incomingyarn strand against a slower moving textured yarn plug in the texturingchamber. The spent steam escaped to the rear through vent holes andprovided a blanket of heat around the pre-heater tube. The temperatureof the yarn was found to drop by about 20 to 30 C. as it moved in acompacted mass to the end of the texturizing chamber. After leaving thetexturizing chamber, the textured yarn was pulled over several tensionbars and Wound on a package. The crimp definition of the crimped yarnwas. Crimp elongation before boil 10%, crimp elongation after boil 25%and the free shrinkage was 3.0%.

Another method of crimping multicolored yarns in accordance with thisinvention is described in copending application Ser. No. 510,591, filedon Nov. 30, 1965, now US. Patent No. 3,406,436. Here, 20 ends of1,050-denier, 70-filament, one-half-Z twist polycaproamide, along with20 ends of 40-120 twist dyed yarn at a temperature of 90 C. were fedinto a stuffer box at a feed rate of 1425 feet per minute and wound-upon a yarn package at 1160 feet per minute. The gas pressure was variedduring the process to vary the resistance against the yarn, therebymaintaining substantially constant yarn volume in the stuffer box. Therates placed on the stuffer varied between 1.5 pounds and 5.0 pounds.The yarn received a uniform crimp having 14 crimps per inch controlledwithing :2.0 crimps per inch. Still other methods which may be employedfor producing the crimp in accordance with this invention are morespecifically described in copending application Ser. No. 570,918, filedon Aug. 8, 1966, and Ser. No. 603,912, filed on Dec. 22, 1966.

The effect of twist and crimp levels and concentration of the variousfilaments upon the design of the fabrics is illustrated in the examplesof Table II.

TABLE II.EFFECT OF CONCENTRATION AND TWIST LEVEL UPON DESIGN Percent ofMore Dark Expensive Turns per Turns per Inches Inches Ex. Contrast InchBefore Inch After Spacings Spacings No. Compositing ComponentCombination Combination Note 1 White Black Type Fabric 1 Stufier boxcrimper 49 1. 5-2 2-2. 5 Double knit. 2-. d 49 .5-1 5-. 75 D0. 3 do 49l2. 25 .15. 3 Do. 3A-. do 49 Do. 4 do 49 3. 4 3-6 Do. 5 Control, notcompositecl 49 2-4 .3-6 Do. 6 Stufier box crimper 49 1. 5-2 2. 0-2. 5 3colors, jersey kinit.

49 05-. 25 05-. 25 Double knit. 33/33 5-1. 0 .5-1. 5 Do. 33/33 .2. 4 Z2-4 Do. 33/33 Do.

40 5. 75 5-1. 0 Tricot knit. 33/33 25-0. 5 25-0. 5 Do. 41) .75-1. 075-1. 0 Do. 49 75-2 75-2. 0 Woven: cotton warp. 45) 25-2. 0 4 .252. 0Woven: nylon Warp. 33 5-1. 5 5 25-2. 0 Jersey knit, dark grey tones. 225-1. 25 6 25-2. 0 Jersey knit, light grey tone. 49 25-1. 5 .25-2. 0Jersey knit, grey. 3.0 25-2. 0 Dark grey tone, circular knit rib. 20do 1. 76 .252. 0 7 2.5-2.0 Circular knit rib. 21 Stufier box crimper.33/33 25. 75 .25-1. 0 Woven. 22 do 33/33 .25-1. 0 .25-1. 0 Do.

Note 1:Percent optical design ractors=dark contrast component, itsapparent optical contribution to design/weight percent of dark contrascomponen 1 Entanglemcnts. 2 Two colors. 3 Homogeneous blend. 4 Average,.75. 5 Average, 1.0. 6 Average, 7 Average, .6.

It can be seen from the data in Table II that in Examples 1 and 2, thedouble knit fabrics have designs, with the same concentration of blackyarn, substantially different from each other with as little as 0.07turn per inch. Likewise, Examples 3 and 4 were dramatically differentfrom each other in that Example 4 showed very short stripes in a planeparallel with the knit direction, whereas Example 3 showednon-regularity of stripes with the stripes moving both in a parallel andin a vertical direction to produce a novel marl effect. Example 5 is acontrol wherein two separate ends were knitted as one in a fabric. Thisfabric was characterized by a long, irregular, unattractive stripe withno aesthetic appeal.

Example 6 illustrates a three-colored jersey knit fabric wherein thedesign spacings are in the direction of the stitch, similar to Example1, except for a narrower zigzag design. This fabric gave an opticalcolor transition less smooth than the double knits. Example 7 is acomposite yarn having 30 entanglements per meter which was crimped anddouble knitted to give an excellent heather fabric with smoothtransition between color zones. Here, there was no distinct white orblack areas and the fabric had the appearance of a mixture of light anddark grey. Example 8 is a three-color combination of white, black andred overdyed with green, wherein the spacings are similar to Example 1,in geometric design, except that the stitch spacings are slightlyreduced lengthwise and substantially reduced 90 to the stitch plane.Example 9 is a three-color blend combination also as in Example 8,except that it has a twist of 0.5 turn per inch. This gave the fabric amarl design. Example 10 is a double knit, three-color combination,having 2 /2 turns per inch and illustrates a complete salt and peppereffect. Example 11 is a tricot knit of two colors, i.e., black andwhite, top bar, white in bottom bar, and then overdyed blue. This fabrichas a very attractive marl effect with the pattern more random and withless transition for color contrast in the fabric structure. The lengthof the contrasting color pattern is of that of the control and about 66%of Example 13 without a lower bar knit. Example 12 is a tricot knit ofthree colors, i.e., black, white and a brownish-red on the top bar and abottom bar of white.

Example 13 is a two-color combination tricot knit, about one-half thedistance between the contrast area as that in Example 1. Example 14 is awoven fabric, twocolor nylon composite yarn in the filling and cotton inthe Warp. This fabric has strong contrasting colors, a random, distinctand pleasing design. Example 15 is a woven fabric, two-color combinationin the filling and a continuous filament nylon warp. This fabric is aricher, brighter fabric than the fabrics with cotton in the warp and isan illustration of the novel effect due to the change in the fabricdesign.

Examples 16, 17 and 18 demonstrate one of the novel aspects of thisinvention in that while there was a substantial decrease in the amountof the costly dope-dyed component, there was only a minor change in theaverage geometric dimensions of the random design in the direction ofthe stitch. There was, however, a little change in the actual characterof the designs. Thus, as the concentration was decreased, the shading ofthe white zones by the dyed zones was less apparent. It has been foundthat there was an area of maximum contrast, with each manufacturingmethod, at optimum concentrations of the dark components. The design maybe altered further by changing the twist level. A still furthersoftening of contrast may be obtained by decreasing the concentration ofthe dark component. Examples 19 and 20 illustrate fabrics obtained fromyarns crimped through a jet-texturizing device which resulted in asaw-tooth type crimp. It was unexpected to find, for example, that withconcentrations as low as 1.5% of a black yarn in the fabric, the samegeometric design could be obtained in comparison with a fabric with 49%of of the black TABLE III lllillimeters Percent; Distance Example WhiteVertical for N 0. Component the Light Areas Thus, it should be notedfrom the data in the tables that at all twist levels, the double knitfabrics are entirely reversible. In the three-color combinations, thedouble knit fabrics also show a remarkable change in design at thevarious twist levels. However, on the reverse side, there issubstantially less change with the change in the twist level and thechange noted is less of geometry and more of a change in texture. Thereexists, however, on the reverse side a change in design with a change inthe twist level. In the jersey knit fabrics, there is a striking changein design with a change in the twist and entanglement levels, but thedark areas exist as a narrow band and are less massive than thatcharacterized by the double knit fabrics. The high contrast areas in thejersey knit fabrics are characterized by a zigzag, stitched design. Thejersey knits have a different design on the reverse side which pointsout the variety, interest level and utility of this invention.

These fabrics, as shown in Examples 16, 17 and 18, are highly useful forshirting, hosiery, dress goods, leotards, etc. The tricot knit fabricsexhibit less design contrast and a more uniform phasing of the designfrom one contrast level to the other. The stripes or design size ismidway between the jersey knit and the double knit fabrics. The tricot(Examples 11, 12 and 13) and the double knit fabrics (Examples 1, 2, 3,4, 7, 8, 9 and 10) have substantial utility for lingerie, blouses,sweaters, etc. A novel design change was observed also on the reverseside with a reduced contrast. Thus, these fabrics are fully reversible.The circular knit rib fabrics, as illustrated by Examples 19 and 20,show strong, bold contrast with zigzag designs of comparatively narrowbands. These knitted fabrics do not demonstrate, however, a good qualityreversible design.

When the composite yarns of this invention were used in a plain weavefabric, as illustrated in Examples 14, 15, 21 and 22, the design wasvery narrow and of limited contrast, and when used with a staple warp,unless the colors are of deep contrasts in a composite structure, thedesign was white and subtle. However, when non-modified, continuousfilaments of nylon were used in the warp and the composite structure ofthis invention was used in the filling, then the design was considerablybolder, richer and warmer. The plain weave fabric thus produced has athree-dimensional appearance which does not appear to be duplicable byother processes. By using the continuous filament composite yarns ofthis invention in one direction and a cotton staple in an oppositedirection, for example, a design effect can be obtained which is as ifthe whole fabric was made of a blend of natural and syntheticstable-spun yarn, e.g., of polyester and cotton.

In woven fabrics where the continuous filament composite yarn of thisinvention is in one direction and the same or some other syntheticfilament yarn is used in the other direction, a novel,three-dimensional, random leather-like design may be obtained. Thesewoven fabrics,

employing the novel composite structure, find utility in upholstering,seat belts, automobile seat covers, shirting, dress goods and for manyother applications where staple fabrics or design effects are desired.In the woven fabrics where double weaves are used, reversible fabricsmay be obtained with different and novel designs on either side. Forinstance, in a double plain weave, a plaid may be on one side and aplain weave may be on the other side, as in overcoats, with thecomposite structure of this invention resulting in a different design onboth sides of the woven fabric. As an alternative, the yarns obtained bythis invention may be employed as a twill face on one side and a plainweave on the other side. Thus, in the construction of seat belts, oneside may have a modified double plain weave of one color design and astandard double weave on the other side with a different colored design.In those items where economy and mass production are essential, thecomposite yarns of this invention achieve their maximum utility since itis possible to use the more expensive components in low concentrationsand still obtain the effect as if they were present at the higherconcentrations.

Thus, by using various color combinations within the fabric composition,the same general trend may be obtained with each twist level and witheach entanglement level. This same general trend is obtained as thedesign changes with the different methods of manufacture. However, theditference of the dark colored design in a direction 90 from the stitchis changed substantially more than in the design in the direction of thestitch. Thus, with the two-color combination yarns, maximumeffectiveness for multi-colored combinations (greater than two) isobtained where the dark colored contrasting components are used inrelatively small amounts, since the design is changed primarily in adirection opposite to the stitch direction, and, therefore, largeramounts of the more expensive color components are not very effectiveoptically in changing the design.

As previously stated, the yarns may contain various additives whichimpart particular properties to the finished fabric. Preferably, theadditives are incorporated into the dark contrasting filaments and sincethey are the more expensive components, they are used in lesser amountsin the total composite-yarn structure. These additives may beincorporated into the filaments either by adding the ingredients to thepolymer prior to spinning or by after-treatment of the yarn and include,for example, flame-retardants, e.g., antimony, phosphorus and halogencompounds; delustrants, e.g., titanium dioxide; antistatic agents;adhesion promoting agents, i.e., isocyanates and epoxides; heat andlight stabilizers, e.g., inorganic reducing ions, such as manganese,copper, tin, etc. Other additives include the amines, fluorescent agentsand brighteners, crosslinking agents, bacteriostats, e.g., phenols andquaternary amines, etc. A more detailed description of the methodsemployed in incorporating the various additives into the syntheticfilaments may be found in US. Patent No. 3,279,974 and Canadian PatentNo. 882,293.

Heretofore, in the manufacturing of novelty yarns of the type describedhereinabove, the processes involved expensive and time-consuming spacedyeing or space treating. This invention, however, is concerned with aprocess and the products obtained therefrom for manufacturing yarns ofat least two filaments of contrasting colors or colorability whentreated in accordance with this invention, resulting in yarns havinglight and dark contrasting colored sections. When these yarns are usedfor knitting into various garments, the random, multicolor effect ispronounced appearing not as a color-blended fabric, which is expected,but appearing unexpectedly as a fabric made from space-dyed orspace-treated yarns.

The different dyeing processes which may be used for purposes of thisinvention to obtain the colored or colorable yarns include, for example,dope-dyed, skein-dyed,

finish-dyed, and the like. Continuous filaments of various combinationswhich are separately colorable include, for example, nylon,nylon-polyester, nylon and nylon-polyester blends, nylon-polypropylene,nylon-acrylic, and a variety of other known combinations.

As stated, the design of the fabrics may be altered by subjecting thefilaments to mechanical operations, prior to compositing them in acrimper. The mechanical operations may include ring and travelertwisting, falsetwi sting, jet-twisting, entanglement by sonic jet,standard jet entanglement, commingling jet entanglement, needlingentanglement, hydraulic jet entanglement, etc. The texturizing operationfor compositing the filaments may include stulfer box crimping, jetcrimping, i.e., to produce a saw-tooth, three-dimensional crimp, gearcrimping, edge crimping, thermal-shock crimping, a combination ofchemical and jet crimping, etc. Various fabrics and other textilearticles may be manufactured from the composite-yarn structures of thisinvention by utilizing well-known methods including, for example,circular knit, e.g., double-knit, jersey knit, Jacquard-type knit, etc.Alternatively, warp knitting, e.g., tricot knits, Milanese, simplex,raschel, Jacquard, etc., may be employed. In addition, woven goods maybe prepared from the composite structures and include the three basicweaves, i.e., plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. Other typeweaves which may be considered as plain twill or satintype include, forexample, the Bedford cord, the birds-eye weave, the waffle weave, theswivel weave, double cloth weave, pile weave, etc.

The yarns and fabrics obtained in accordance with this invention may bedyed and finished by utilizing conventional methods. Thus, for example,where the yarn structure comprises natural white filaments and dope-dyedfilaments, the fabric obtained therefrom may be scoured and finished sothat there is a contrast between the dopedyed yarn and the natural colorof the other yarns. The scoured fabric may be overdyed in a single dyebath to reduce the yarn to a lower shade level in comparison to thedope-dyed product. Space-dyeing techniques may be used also to achieve anovel and bulkier design interposed over the three-dimensional designsof this invention so as to add massiveness to the design. In addition,over-printing may be utilized as a means of superimposing additionaldesign variations. As part of the fabric finishing operation, the designmay be further modified by calendering, beetling, flocking, corduroying,etc.

What is claimed is:

1. A process of preparing texturized, composite yarn structures whichcomprises forming homogeneous, composite structures from at least twocrimped continuous synthetic filaments of light and dark contrastingcolors or colorability having a crimp level of 6-30 crimps per inch andsubsequently subjecting the composited structures to an entanglingoperation to impart a level of 0.01 to entanglements per meter; saidcontrasted colored or colorable filaments having a color contrast of atleast six Gardner units; said composited yarn-structure comprising 0.5to 49 parts by weight of at least one dark contrasting color orcolorable filament and 51 to 99.5 parts by weight of at least onelighter colored or colorable filament.

2. The process of claim 1 further characterized in that the homogeneouscomposite structures are formed by simultaneously crimping a pluralityof filaments of light and dark contrasting colors or colorability andsubsequently twisting said structure to a level of 0.01 to 3 turns perinch.

3. The process of claim 2 further characterized in that the plurality oflight and dark contrasting filaments comprise nylon filaments.

4. The process of claim 3 further characterized in that the nylonfilaments comprise polycaproamide.

5. A process for preparing texturized composite-yarn structures whichcomprises combining at least two continuous synthetic filaments of lightand dark contrasting colors or colorability by subjecting said filamentsto (1) twisting to a level of 0.01 to 3 turns per inch, (2) entanglingto a level of 0.01 to 100 entanglements per meter, and (3) crimping thecombined filaments to obtain a homogeneous composite structure to acrimp level of 6-30 crimps per inch; said colored or colorable filamentshaving a color contrast of at least six Gardner units, saidcomposite-yarn structures comprising 0.5 to 49 parts by weight of atleast one dark contrasting colored or colorable filament and 51 to 99.5parts by weight of at least one lighter colored or colorable filament.

6. The process of claim 5 further characterized in that said light anddark contrasting colored or colorable filaments are selected from thegroup consisting of nylons, polyesters, polyolefins, and acrylics.

7. The process of claim 6 further characterized in that the darkcontrasting filaments comprise nylons and the lighter contrastingfilaments comprise polyesters.

8. The process of claim 5 further characterized in that the filaments oflight and dark contrasting color or colorability are first composited bycrimping to a level of .6 to 30 crimps per inch and then subjected totwisting and entangling to the levels indicated.

9. A process for preparing texturized, composite-yarn structures whichcomprises forming composited, homogeneous structures by simultaneouslycrimping at least two synthetic filaments of contrasting colors orcolorability wherein the filaments have a color contrast of at least sixGardner units and are crimped to a level of 6 to 30 crimps per inch;subsequently subjecting the filaments to entangling to a level of 1.0 to100 entanglements per meter and twisting to a level of 0.1 to 3 turnsper inch, said composited yarn structures comprising 0.5 to 30 parts byweight of at least one dark, contrasting colored or colorable filamentand 70 to 99.5 parts by weight of at least one lighter colored orcolorable filament.

10. The process of claim 9 further characterized in that the filamentsare drawn to a ratio of 3 to 6 prior to being simultaneously crimped.

11. A texturized composite-yarn structure having an entanglement levelof 1 to 100 entanglements per meter and a crimp level of 6-30 crimps perinch; said structure comprising 0.5 to 49 parts by weight of at leastone dark contrasting, colored or colorable synthetic filament and 51 to99.5 parts by weight of at least one lighter colored or colorablesynthetic filament; said filaments having a color contrast of at leastsix Gardner units.

12. A colored fabric prepared from the textured, composite-yarnstructures of claim 11 further characterized as having the dark,contrasting colored filaments homogeneously composited in the yarn toimpart to the fabric a random, three-dimensional effect.

13. The colored fabric of claim 12 further characterized in that saidfabric comprises natural filaments.

14. The colored fabric of claim 13 further characterized in that saidnatural filaments are selected from the group consisting of wool andcotton.

15. The texturized composite-yarn structure of claim 11 furthercharacterized in that the dark contrasting colored or colorablefilaments comprise nylon filaments and the lighter filaments areselected from the group consisting of polycaproamide, polyesters,polyacrylics, and polypropylene.

16. The texturized composite-yarn structure of claim 15 furthercharacterized in that the dark contrasting colored or colorablefilaments comprise nylon filaments and the lighter filaments comprisepolypropylene.

17. The texturized composite-yarn structure of claim 15 furthercharacterized in that the dark contrasting colored or colorablefilaments comprise nylon and the lighter colored or colorable filamentscomprise polyesters.

18. The texturized composite-yarn structure of claim 11 furthercharacterized in that the dark contrasting colored or colorablefilaments contain effective amounts of additives to improve the ultimateproperties of the yarn structures and the fabrics prepared therefrom.

19. The texturized composite-yarn structure of claim 18 furthercharacterized in that the dark contrasting colored or colorablefilaments containing the additives are polycaproamide and the lightercolored or colorable filaments are selected from the group consisting ofnylons, polyesters, polyacrylics, and polypropylene.

20. The composite-yarn structure of claim 19 further characterized inthat the lighter colored or colorable filaments are polyesters.

21. The texturized composite yarn structure of claim 11 furthercharacterized as having 0.01 to 3 turns per inch of twist.

22. The yarn structure of claim 21 further characterized in that thedrak contrasting colored or colorable filaments have a Munsell lightnessvalue of 0-6 units and a Munsell chroma value of 0-13 and the lightercolored or colorable filaments have a Munsell lightness value of 6-10and a Munsell chroma value of 0-11.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,099,064 7/1963 Haynes 28-13,123,888 3/1964 Meyers 28-1 FOREIGN PATENTS 658,465 5/1965 Belgium.1,064,765 4/ 1967 Great Britain.

JOHN PETRAKES, Primary Examiner U.S. Cl. X.R.

